Chicken Francese – Arthur Schwartz

Serves 4

This is a delicious and easy recipe that’s
very hard to find because people look in Italian cookbooks for it.
It isn’t entirely Italian, so they search in vain. Indeed, it is
hardly even known outside the New York metro area, which leads me
to believe that it is a strictly local dish. In fact, the only English
language cookbook in which I have EVER seen the recipe is in one
of my own, Cooking In A Small
, published by Little Brown in 1978 and now out of
print, and The
Brooklyn Cookbook
by Lyn Stallworth and Rod Kennedy, Jr.,
published by Knopf in 1991 and still widely available.

The recipe does, however, have antecedents
in recipes that I have found in Italian language Neapolitan cookbooks,
but its final refinement must have been in New York. When I was
growing up in Brooklyn in the 1950s, it was just beginning to gain
in popularity over veal and chicken parmigiana. You can also have
veal francese, shrimp francese, and fish (usually sole or flounder
fillets) francese.

Francese of course means “in the
French manner,” but it refers to a food that is dipped in flour
and egg, then fried, then dressed with lemon juice or lemon sauce.
In Neapolitan cookbooks, there’s mozzarella or provola (aged mozzarella)
treated this way, and chicken thighs on the bone treated this way.
But a thin slice of veal or chicken? No. And these days, such a
dish would not be called francese in Naples anyway. It would most
likely be called indorati e fritti — gilded and fried. Entirely
an Italian dish.

Because this is a restaurant dish and usually
made in single portions, the following recipe is a slight compromise
— in order to prepare enough for four, you have to keep half the
recipe warm while cooking the rest. It can be done without drying
out the chicken, but make sure to ever-so-slightly undercook the
first batch, as it will stand in a warming oven for a few minutes.
Use the same ingredients and method for preparing veal or shrimp
or a fish fillet, keeping in mind that the cooking times will vary

4 skinless, boneless
chicken breasts (about 1 1/3 pounds)
Salt and freshly
ground pepper
2 eggs
4 tablespoons vegetable
4 tablespoons butter
4 tablespoons dry
white vermouth
6 tablespoons chicken
broth (canned is fine)
4 tablespoons freshly
squeezed lemon juice
Lemon wedges

Note well: Make sure to have all
ingredients measured and lined up before starting to cook. You will
have to make the chicken in 2 batches of 2 cutlets each, so the
frying fats and the sauce ingredients will be used half at a time.
Before beginning, put the oven on 200 degrees so you will have a
warm oven to keep the first batch of two cutlets warm while cooking
the second two.

Between 2 sheets of waxed paper, using
the side of a can, a heavy jar, or a meat pounder, pound the breasts
until about 1/3 of an inch thick (or have the butcher do this for
you). Season well with salt and pepper.

Place some flour on a dinner plate or a
piece of waxed paper.

Beat the eggs with a fork in a wide, shallow
bowl or a deep plate with a rim.

Dredge 2 chicken breasts on both sides
in the flour, coating heavily by pressing it on. Then pass the breasts
through the egg, making sure they are thoroughly coated.

Just before placing the breasts in the
hot oil, dredge them in the flour again, again coating heavily.

In a 10-inch skillet, over medium-high
to high heat, heat the oil and butter together until sizzling. Place
the coated breasts in the pan and fry for about 2 minutes or slightly
longer per side, until the batter is browned and the cutlets are
just done through. If the fat in the pan starts smoking before the
cutlets are done, turn down the heat slightly or add just a touch
(a teaspoon or so) more oil. Do not let the fat burn or, for that
matter, the flour that has migrated into it.

As the cutlets are done (2 fit easily in
a 10-inch skillet), remove to a serving platter and keep warm while
making the sauce.

Immediately add the vermouth, chicken broth
and lemon juice to the pan. Let boil over high heat for about a
minute, until reduced by about half and slightly thickened. It will
be brown.

Pour the sauce into a cup and set aside
while repeating the whole procedure with the remaining cutlets and

When you have made the second sauce, add
the first to it, in the skillet, to reheat it. Pour the sauce over
the cutlets, garnish with lemon wedges and serve immediately.