KASHA VARNISHKES

Serves 8

     Kasha refers to buckwheat groats in Jewish cooking, although it is a generic word for cereal in Russian. The word varnishkes is connected to the word vareniki, which is today the Ukrainian word for a filled dumpling, on the general order of Kreplach (page 00) and Polish pierogi (pierogen in Yiddish). However, the word vereniki originally meant a rectangular-cut noodle. Today, and for as long as anyone alive can remember, kasha varnishkes is kasha tossed with bow-tie egg noodles, seasoned with fried onions. Bowties are made by pinching a pleat into a rectangular-cut noodle.

     In Yiddish cooking, kasha is also one of the traditional fillings for Knishes (page 00), which, arguably, were not created in Europe but in New York.

     At my family's table, as at many others, kasha prepared with water and no onions or bow ties was the usual accompaniment to a pot roast; more often than not, a brisket. The real treat was pouring the meat juices full of onions and vegetables over the nutty flavored grain.

     Chicken fat makes all the difference in the flavor of kasha varnishkes. Vegetable oil, such as corn, peanut, or canola, will do, but then I would want the broth to be particularly flavorful and I might use a full quart of broth and not half water, as follows. When I make kasha as a side dish to roast chicken, I deglaze the roasting pan and use those juices to flavor the kasha.

     This recipe can easily be cut in half, if desired. It reheats very well; sometimes I think it even improves with reheating.

3 medium onions (about 3 cups), chopped and darkly fried in schmaltz or vegetable oil (page 00)

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

2 cups chicken or beef broth or bouillon (vegetarians can use vegetable broth), plus 2 cups water (see headnote)

2 cups medium or coarse kasha

1 egg, lightly beaten

1/4 to 1/2 pound dried egg pasta or macaroni bow ties

If possible, deglaze the pan from frying the onions with 2 cups of water. Pour the deglazing water into a 1-quart measuring cup. Add the 2 cups of broth or bouillon (to make a full quart of liquid) and set aside. If the onions have been fried ahead of time and there is no pan to deglaze, just use 1 quart of broth or bouillon, or all water.

In a small bowl, mix the kasha and beaten egg together well.

Put the egg-coated kasha in a dry, 10-inch skillet or medium saucepan that has a cover. Place the pan over medium-high heat and stir constantly until the kasha separates into individual grains again, 2 to 3 minutes. The grain's earthy aroma will come up from the pan.

Immediately add the reserved liquid. As soon as the mixture begins to simmer, cover the pan, and adjust the heat to medium-low. Cook for 7 to 9 minutes, until the kasha is tender.

Fluff the kasha with a fork and set aside, partly covered to let the steam escape.

Bring about 3 quarts of well-salted water to a rolling boil. Add the bow ties and cook until tender. Drain well.

Add the fried onions and boiled bowties to the kasha and toss together until well mixed.

Serve hot. The varnishkes can be made ahead and reheated, covered with a lid or foil, in a warm oven.